The vibrant resurgence of Celine, marked by a bold embrace of rich reds and blues and an undeniable aura of desirability, is a testament to the visionary leadership of Creative Director Michael Rider and the strategic acumen of CEO Séverine Merle. Since Rider’s return to the house in October 2024, following a significant tenure under Phoebe Philo, Celine has not only recaptured its esteemed position in the luxury market but has also forged a compelling new identity. This transformation is evident on runways, city streets, and even the red carpet, as exemplified by Carey Mulligan’s striking silver gown, signaling a brand that is creating products consumers genuinely desire, a feat increasingly challenging in today’s luxury landscape.
“We need to keep building on that desirability. It’s very strong, as you can see from the press coverage,” Séverine Merle, Celine CEO, stated from her office at the brand’s headquarters, the historic Hôtel Colbert de Torcy in Paris. Merle, who has helmed the brand since 2017, presides over a house that has seen a dramatic upward trajectory since Rider presented his debut collection in July 2025. The subsequent shows – Fall 2026 Ready-to-Wear, Men’s, and Women’s Spring 2027 – have been widely lauded as a "trilogy of triumphs," reinforcing Celine’s creative momentum. Nicole Phelps, Global Director of Vogue Runway and Vogue Business, even preemptively claimed Celine for her team’s favorite moments from the Spring 2027 show season, a sentiment echoed by industry insiders.
The Rider Effect: Reigniting Desirability
Michael Rider’s return to Celine marked a pivotal moment for the LVMH-owned fashion house. His previous nine-year stint under Phoebe Philo laid the groundwork for an aesthetic that celebrated understated chic and intelligent design. Upon his reappointment as Creative Director, Rider was tasked with infusing a fresh perspective while honoring the brand’s heritage. His debut collection in July 2025 immediately signaled a departure towards a more dynamic and perhaps more accessible interpretation of luxury, characterized by bold color palettes and distinctive accessories, such as the now-iconic disc-shaped glasses.
The impact of Rider’s vision is palpable. The ubiquitous presence of red sweaters draped across shoulders in fashion capitals like Paris and New York, and the surge in demand for specific Celine pieces, underscore his ability to tap into the zeitgeist. This renewed desirability is not confined to the runway; it translates directly into commercial success.
Navigating the Macroeconomic Landscape
Despite Celine’s remarkable resurgence, the brand, like all players in the luxury sector, operates within a complex global economic environment. The slowdown in Chinese luxury spending and broader macroeconomic challenges present persistent hurdles. However, Séverine Merle remains focused on capitalizing on existing demand and fostering its growth. “We’re seeing [desirability] take hold among our clients, and particularly among American clients. The ambition is for that desirability to reach increasingly wider circles,” Merle explained. “Of course, we’re committed to remaining highly profitable to fund our broader ambitions. But we put desirability at the heart of the house.”
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This strategy involves a multi-pronged approach, encompassing both ultra-high-end offerings and more accessible entry-level products. While menswear and fragrances are not the primary drivers, they play a crucial role in enhancing the brand’s overall appeal and reaching a broader demographic.
A Balanced Global Footprint
With the Chinese market presenting ongoing challenges, Celine’s strategic focus has shifted towards strengthening its presence in markets where the brand already enjoys robust desirability, notably the United States, South Korea, and Japan. Merle highlighted that the brand’s regional sales mix is now “more balanced than we have ever been,” with Europe continuing to be a vital market. This recalibration reflects a global shift in luxury consumption patterns and Celine’s agile response to evolving consumer behavior.
A Legacy of Evolution: From Vipiana to Rider
Celine’s journey began in 1945 when Céline Vipiana founded the house as a children’s shoe boutique. LVMH acquired the brand in 1996, initiating a new chapter. The period between 2008 and 2017, under Phoebe Philo’s creative direction, is widely regarded as a golden era, transforming Celine into a definitive label for minimalist chic and achieving approximately €1 billion in sales. Philo’s aesthetic, characterized by its intellectual rigor and understated elegance, cultivated a devoted following.
Hedi Slimane took the helm as Artistic, Creative, and Image Director in 2018, famously dropping the accent from the brand’s name. His tenure, which concluded in 2024, saw the establishment of an aesthetic that merged Parisian haute bourgeoisie with a distinctly Californian rock-and-roll edge. Slimane also spearheaded the expansion of Celine into menswear, haute couture, and fragrance. During this period, Bernard Arnault, Chairman and CEO of LVMH, described Celine as "chic, sexy fashion for young people, even if the prices are what they are, and it works."
The Post-Slimane Era and Rider’s Impact
Following a period of rapid growth, Celine experienced a downturn, mirroring the broader luxury market slowdown. While LVMH does not disclose individual brand sales figures, HSBC estimates projected a decline in Celine’s sales from €2.6 billion in 2023 to €1.87 billion in 2026. However, recent indicators suggest a significant turnaround.
Céline Cabanis, LVMH CFO, noted during the group’s Q3 earnings call in October, "Celine is doing better." She specifically cited double-digit sales growth in both the US and the footwear category, as well as the exceptional performance of the Soft Triomphe handbag, a product launched under Rider. The Soft Triomphe Small Half Moon, priced at €2,200, quickly became the brand’s best-selling bag, with certain colorways, like the purple iteration, becoming particularly coveted. “What Michael wanted to introduce when he arrived was bags featuring variations on the logo – with slightly smaller logos, softer leathers, and a much wider range of colors. The Soft Triomphe is a perfect example of exactly that,” Merle confirmed.
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Measuring Brand Heat: Digital Buzz and Resale Value
The resurgence of Celine is demonstrably reflected in various industry metrics. The brand made its debut on Lyst’s Hottest Brands Index at number 20 in Q1 2026, climbing to number 15 by Q2. This digital heat is also translating into the resale market. Sofia Bernardin, co-founder and CEO of the Paris-based luxury resale platform ReSee, reported a more than 50% increase in the average price for vintage Celine items since Rider’s arrival. Notably, Phoebe Philo-era pieces constitute approximately 83% of the Celine items sold on ReSee, with Hedi Slimane and earlier vintage pieces making up the remainder.
On Vestiaire Collective, searches combining "Celine" and "Michael Rider" surged by 200% between January and September 2026. Following Rider’s SS27 show, which featured prominent Triomphe logo bags, searches for the Triomphe bag specifically saw an 1,800% increase compared to the preceding month. This surge in online interest and resale value underscores the strong desirability of Celine’s current offerings.
Strategic Growth Amidst Challenges
While Celine does not possess the colossal marketing budgets of mega-brands like Louis Vuitton, Dior, or Chanel, Séverine Merle is strategically navigating these constraints to ensure Rider’s vision continues to gain traction. Having achieved significant success in the US, the next challenge is to expand this momentum globally, especially in a competitive soft luxury market and amidst economic uncertainties that affect consumer confidence. The prevailing sentiment within LVMH remains optimistic. “We are very confident that Celine is now getting the right level of traction to become a growth driver for us,” Cabanis stated during the Q3 call.
The "Secret Sauce": Sophistication with a Playful Edge
Celine under Michael Rider appears to be defining a new paradigm in luxury, potentially moving beyond the era of "quiet luxury" towards a sophisticated yet effortless aesthetic with an added playful dimension. Sarah Mower, Vogue’s chief critic, observed the "undoneness" of the looks backstage at the SS27 show, a quality that resonates deeply with Rider. "It’s what I respond to,” Rider remarked. “I am not turned on by something that’s too rigid, too figé. That’s not what I find stylish. What’s interesting about Celine is that tension, because it is a rigorous place. We are not living on the edge at Celine, and you are coming to get real clothes. I love that; I love when real clothes are worn spontaneously.”
This philosophy is reflected in the self-styling of Rider’s runway presentations and the innovative scenography of the re-see events. The brand’s flagship store at 53 Avenue Montaigne exemplifies this approach, with its curated displays featuring an all-red product installation, a spectrum of silk scarves, and gradient color palettes for bags. This visual merchandising strategy aims to create an immersive and engaging brand experience.
Mower likens the current buzz around Celine to the growing momentum that surrounded Loewe under Jonathan Anderson’s creative direction. “It feels to me a bit like the buzz that grew around Loewe when Jonathan Anderson began there. It’s attracting those same people, who are after fashion that is not heavily identified with the conventionality of a major Paris house – but who want an insider’s kind of luxury.”
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Resilience in the Face of Adversity
The brand’s resilience was tested recently when a Celine store on Avenue Montaigne in Paris was looted. Despite the incident occurring just days before a scheduled interview, Séverine Merle maintained her composure and commitment. "The best thing we can do is get back to it as quickly as possible," she stated, demonstrating the brand’s determination. The store reopened by Wednesday, underscoring a commitment to swift recovery and continued operations, even during challenging times. This resilience is particularly significant for a brand that is intrinsically linked to the image and identity of Paris. Merle acknowledged the impact of the French market, which accounts for nearly half of Celine’s European business, stating, "We’ll see how things develop. Paris has been through difficult times before, but it always bounces back. It’s an incredibly resilient city.”
A Stronghold in the US Market
The United States has emerged as a cornerstone of Celine’s current success. Significant investments in expanding the retail network, coinciding with Michael Rider’s optimistic and colorful aesthetic resonating strongly with American consumers, have fueled this growth. Recent developments include the reopening of the Rodeo Drive store in September and the establishment of a presence in Aventura Mall in October, with a new Florida store slated for Bal Harbour by year-end. New York is also performing exceptionally well, despite no recent store openings there. Merle indicated a strategic focus on expanding and renovating existing stores rather than a rapid new store opening strategy, though she noted potential for additional footwear-focused locations within department stores. Celine currently operates approximately 200 retail points worldwide.
Entry-Level Categories Driving Acquisition
Footwear has become a critical category for luxury brands seeking to attract new customers, offering an accessible entry point into the brand’s universe. Celine has effectively capitalized on this trend under Rider’s direction. Best-selling items include the Jelly and Cage sandals from SS26, as well as the Aura loafer from Rider’s debut Spring 2026 collection, distinguished by its small Triomphe logo and available in a wide array of colors.
“With Michael, no category is neglected; it’s part of the way he thinks about dressing and accessorizing the silhouette. Across all our customer acquisition categories, everything is doing extraordinarily well,” Merle explained. The Maison Celine belt is another highly sought-after item, with demand exceeding supply. Belts and silk scarves are experiencing significant growth, with double-digit and triple-digit sales increases, respectively.
Strategic Pricing and Product Diversification
Celine’s bag strategy exemplifies a careful balance between desirability and accessibility. The Duffle bag in canvas, priced at €1,300, is a prime example of this approach, leveraging creative designs with more affordable materials. Merle emphasized the brand’s commitment to offering "highly creative bags at more affordable prices" and highlighted a creative vision for tote bags, which were prominently featured in the SS27 show. This diversification ensures that Celine caters to a broad spectrum of consumer preferences and price points.
The Role of Menswear, Couture, and Fragrance
The expansion into menswear, couture, and fragrance, initiated under Hedi Slimane, continues to be a part of Celine’s broader strategy. While menswear currently represents less than 10% of the business, Merle sees significant potential for growth, not necessarily in increasing its revenue share but in allowing it to "enrich" the women’s collections. The shared design studio fosters a cohesive creative vision between the two lines, and Rider’s menswear debut on the runway in June showcased this synergy.
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Couture, while not currently supported by a dedicated runway show due to capacity constraints, is an area of active development. Merle noted a loyal and growing couture clientele, particularly among American customers, who exhibit a strong appetite for bespoke and runway-adapted pieces.
The beauty business also plays a vital role in building brand desirability. Fragrances and bath and body products are performing exceptionally well, sold exclusively through Celine’s own network and select prestigious retailers like Le Bon Marché, Harrods, and Umeda Hankyu. This controlled distribution ensures brand integrity and exclusivity.
Reflecting on her nearly decade-long tenure at Celine, having worked with three distinct creative directors, Merle expressed a sense of time flying by. The enduring success of Celine under Michael Rider’s creative direction, coupled with Séverine Merle’s strategic leadership, positions the brand for continued growth and influence in the ever-evolving landscape of luxury fashion.
