The prestigious 41st International Festival of Fashion, Photography, and Accessories, a cornerstone event in the European creative calendar, concluded this afternoon with the announcement of its highly anticipated winners at the Villa Noailles in Hyères, France. This year’s iteration, themed around a racing flag with a star on a pink-and-green checkered ground, symbolized a return to form and a forward momentum for the festival, which has been a launching pad for emerging talent for over four decades. Organizers lauded the edition as "a year of firsts," reflecting both groundbreaking achievements by the laureates and significant strides in the festival’s own evolution.
Yui Chen Clinches Grand Prize for Innovative "Food Cover" Collection
Taking home the coveted Grand Prize in fashion, Shanghai-based designer Yui Chen captivated the jury with her collection titled "Food Cover." Described as a women’s wear-leaning unisex lineup, Chen’s work is deeply rooted in personal narrative, which she articulated as "a way of preserving childhood memories." Developed in collaboration with Montex, the collection features an ingenious blend of everyday garments with transformable overlayers. A yellow lingerie dress, for instance, can be paired with a collapsible structure, such as a tent-like overlay crafted from transparent lace or a more structured cage of leather bows.
Chen’s meticulous design process involves creating miniature models of each piece before actual garment construction, a testament to her dedication to detail and form. She highlighted an eight-paneled sheath dress made from recycled leather that folds flat, akin to an accordion, as an example of this approach. "Fashion is the most vivid form of theater," Chen shared with Vogue, expressing her ambition to "create a whole universe and language, like Issey Miyake did." This grand prize comes with substantial support from Chanel, the festival’s long-term Grand Partner, and the new Grand Partner, le19M, along with its ten Maisons d’Art. Additional grants from sponsors including Atelier des Matières, Supima, and newcomer Watteau, a visual content hub, will further empower Chen’s burgeoning career.
Recognizing Excellence Across Fashion Categories
The festival celebrated a diverse array of talent across its fashion categories. The 19M Métiers d’Art Prize was awarded to London-based artist and designer Dieter Vlasich Obermann (Mexico/Germany). His collection drew inspiration from "tiliches," a term referring to discarded items or "junk," and the often-concealed handicraft embedded within them, showcasing a profound connection to material and resourcefulness.
Rachel Luurssen (Netherlands), a Paris-based designer, received the Ateliers des Matières Prize for a women’s wear collection that masterfully fused Hollywood glamour and the allure of coquettes with the poignant themes of fading beauty and body dysmorphia. Her work offered a compelling commentary on societal ideals and personal perception.
Xiao Xu (China), also based in Paris, secured the Supima Prize for his menswear collection titled "Uncanny." This collection explored the intersection of latex, ’70s fetish culture, intricate embroidery, and knitwear, presenting a bold and conceptual vision of masculine expression.
Notably, Brais Albor Rodriguez (Spain) received both a special mention and the Public Prize for a collection that displayed remarkable wit and inventiveness. Rodriguez managed to seamlessly integrate the concept of squirrels, utilizing shearling sourced from Vinted, with an unexpected and daring exploration of "cojones," demonstrating a playful yet profound approach to design.
A New Era for the Villa Noailles and the Hyères Festival
The 41st edition marked a significant turning point for the Villa Noailles, the historic modernist architectural gem that hosts the festival. Hugo Luccino, the festival’s managing director, emphasized the "year of firsts" by placing women at the helm of every jury: Chloé’s creative director Chemena Kamali presided over the fashion jury, acclaimed photographer Camille Vivier led the photography jury, and Danish fashion designer Cecilie Bahnsen chaired the accessories jury. This deliberate choice underscored a commitment to diverse perspectives and leadership.
Adding to the historical significance, Hyères welcomed its first female mayor since the position was created in 1677, Véronique Bernardini. Her opening remarks at the festivities echoed the enduring spirit of innovation, paraphrasing a famous Gabrielle Chanel quote: "Trends pass but style remains… and in Hyères, audacity is never out of style." This sentiment resonated with the festival’s ethos of fostering bold creative exploration.
The mayor of Toulon, José Massi, who also recently became the first woman president of the Métropole Toulon Provence Méditerranée, lauded the decision to host the fashion show at the Forum du Casino, bringing the event closer to the community. "This is a renaissance," she told Vogue, advocating for cultural accessibility. "Culture shouldn’t be elitist. We have to get as close to people as we can." She also highlighted the importance of engaging with the younger generation, stating, "The future stands less than a meter tall. We have to go out and find them." Massi envisions a future where Hyères and Toulon act as complementary hubs for fashion and design, with potential collaborations and even the relocation of the Design Parade to Toulon’s Porte d’Italie district as early as next year.
Valérie Duport, who assumed the presidency of the Villa Noailles in July, also spoke of her own pioneering role, being the first to volunteer for the position. She paid tribute to the festival’s enduring legacy, acknowledging the challenges of maintaining longevity in the fashion industry. "The Villa Noailles is a living place," she affirmed, "When you have that, you welcome people in." Duport also addressed the financial realities, outlining a strategic plan to address approximately €1.3 million in debt over the next two years, paving the way for a renewed future.
Supporting the Next Generation of Creatives
The support ecosystem for the laureates is robust, extending beyond the festival’s conclusion. Chen, as the Grand Prize winner, will receive continued backing from Chanel and le19M, alongside grants from various sponsors. All fashion laureates are guaranteed visibility through showcases at Première Classe during Paris Fashion Week in March and October 2027, providing crucial industry exposure.
Echoes of Past Triumphs and Future Visions
The festival grounds at the Villa Noailles were alive with exhibitions and installations that highlighted both established alumni and the emerging talents of this year. Lucas Emilio Brunner, the 2023 Grand Prize winner for a collection inspired by inflatables, returned with "Standards," a collection developed in collaboration with the Ateliers de Verneuil. This lineup drew inspiration from sports flags and ’60s Ivy League style, featuring elegantly draped striped poplin shirts, polos with contrasting trim, and a striking leather marquetry coat.
Emma Bruschi, recipient of the 2020 le19M Métiers d’Art Prize, led a collaborative straw-weaving workshop with Galerie 19M, fostering interdisciplinary creative exchange. Amaury Darras, the 2025 Accessories Grand Prize laureate, presented "Keratina Medusa," an Art Nouveau-inspired corset that ingeniously merged cabinetry and jewelry-making techniques in partnership with Goossens. Adrien Michel, winner of the 2025 le19M Métiers d’Art Prize, unveiled a capsule collection inspired by Marcel Breuer’s Cesca B34 chair, anchored by a shirt that folds into a leather case crafted by Studio MTX. Sébastien Meunier, a Grand Prize winner in 1998 who went on to found his namesake label, returned with "Re-Authored," a retrospective examination of his own creative journey.
The Villa Noailles is embarking on an expanded programming model, with its doors remaining open for longer periods throughout the year. This includes museum-style exhibitions and the revival of artistic residency programs, further solidifying its role as a dynamic cultural hub.
A Festival of Questions and Future Imaginings
Hugo Luccino articulated the festival’s core mission: "It’s the festival of creativity, a place for young talents to express themselves however they like." He emphasized the role of these emerging artists in shaping the future: "They’re the ones who are asking the questions and, above all, will inhabit and imagine the world of tomorrow." He acknowledged that the creative process often yields more questions than answers, but underscored the significance of these inquiries. "There aren’t always answers," he continued. "Sometimes there are more questions than answers—but these are subjects that are here to stay. And the first signs of those artistic intuitions, you find them in Hyères."
The exhibitions and programming for the 41st International Festival of Fashion, Photography, and Accessories in Hyères will remain accessible to the public through February 28, 2027. The venue is open Wednesday to Sunday, from 1 p.m. to 6 p.m. Further information can be found on the official Villa Noailles website.
