Venerdì Pomeriggio, under the creative direction of Vivetta Ponti, has unveiled its Spring 2027 collection, aptly titled "Gardening," a nomenclature that encapsulates a profound philosophy extending beyond mere sartorial aesthetics. The collection, presented in a setting that embraced both the indoors and the sprawling beauty of a garden, marks a significant evolution for the brand, signaling a deliberate shift towards slower rhythms, mindful material sourcing, and a more integrated approach to design and presentation. Ponti’s core inspiration for this season stems from the cyclical nature of gardening – the act of nurturing something from its inception, witnessing its independent growth, and ultimately its unique life unfolding. This process, she explains, mirrors the complexities and organic development found in everyday life, forming the bedrock of the "Gardening" collection.
The genesis of the collection is deeply rooted in Ponti’s intrinsic appreciation for domesticity and the decorative arts. "I love wallpaper, decoration, beautiful interiors, and researching details," Ponti stated, elaborating on how her creative process organically extends from the intimate confines of the home to the broader canvas of clothing. This intimate connection between interior design and fashion is a recurring theme in her work, and for Spring 2027, it manifested in a series of garments that evoke the charm and meticulous detail of a well-tended garden.
A Botanical Tapestry of Design Elements
The collection’s visual language is a rich tapestry woven with botanical motifs and domestic references. Windows, a symbolic portal between the inside and the outside, became a recurring design element. These were not merely decorative but were often intricately embroidered onto garments, such as a sophisticated black jacket from which tufts of green feathers sprouted, reminiscent of foliage peeking through a pane of glass. This juxtaposition of hard structure with soft, natural embellishments created a dynamic visual tension.
Tiny wildflowers, meticulously scattered across denim pieces, brought the untamed beauty of a meadow to everyday wear. Meanwhile, the humble tablecloth, often associated with shared meals and domestic warmth, was reimagined as elegantly ruffled skirts, infusing a sense of artisanal craft into high fashion. A striking strapless white taffeta mini-dress exemplified this fusion, with its bodice artfully gathered and tied with pale blue ribbons, evoking the delicate binding of a floral bouquet. The inclusion of green ostrich feathers further enhanced this botanical imagery, suggesting the verdant sway of grass and stems.
Ponti’s commitment to ethical sourcing was particularly evident in her choice of feathers. She collaborated with Mazzanti Piume, a renowned Florentine feather specialist, to ensure that the materials were obtained without plucking. "I wouldn’t have used them otherwise," Ponti emphasized, underscoring her dedication to sustainable practices even in the most intricate details. This conscientious approach aligns with a growing trend in the fashion industry towards greater transparency and environmental responsibility, a movement gaining momentum among both designers and consumers.
Collaborative Blooms and Sustainable Craftsmanship
Beyond the direct inspiration from nature, the "Gardening" collection also showcased a spirit of collaboration, drawing on the expertise of artisans to bring Ponti’s vision to life. Handmade flowers, crafted in Pistoia, adorned garments and headpieces, adding a touch of artisanal charm and organic texture. The more theatrical and avant-garde headpieces were designed by Korean designer Nino Kun, further broadening the collection’s international creative scope. Complementing these elements, Lili Curia developed a range of exquisitely embroidered footwear, seamlessly integrating with the garden-inspired aesthetic.
The practical accessories also reflected the collection’s ethos of resourcefulness and sustainability. Basket bags were ingeniously assembled from recovered satin and leftover fabrics, transforming discarded materials into covetable pieces. This practice of upcycling and utilizing deadstock materials is not only an environmentally conscious choice but also contributes to the unique, one-of-a-kind character of each item.
Ponti articulated the interplay between the interior and exterior worlds as a central theme: "There is always this contrast between inside and outside. You’re inside the house, and through the window you see the garden." This concept was amplified by the collection’s presentation at Milan’s Residenza Vignale, a setting that seamlessly blended architectural elegance with natural surroundings. The venue itself became an extension of the collection’s narrative, blurring the lines between the curated exhibition space and the organic beauty of the outdoors.
A Multisensory Immersion: Beyond the Runway
The "Gardening" presentation transcended a traditional runway show, evolving into a multisensory experience designed to immerse guests in Ponti’s creative world. Chef Marco Assaggia contributed to this immersive environment by curating elaborate tablescapes laden with an abundance of fresh fruit, jewel-toned jellies, and a collection of vintage glass and porcelain pieces that Ponti and her mother had thoughtfully gathered over the summer. These elements were not mere decorative accents but integral components of the narrative, evoking the bounty and aesthetic sensibilities associated with a bountiful garden and a cherished home.
The soundtrack also played a pivotal role in shaping the atmosphere. Ponti revealed her increasing inclination to consider music and location from the very inception of her design process. "When I design, I increasingly think about the music and the location too," she stated. Santamaria Sound Studio collaborated to develop a cinematic score specifically tailored to the collection, aiming to evoke the personalities and narratives of the imagined wearers. This departure from the conventional runway format reflects a broader industry trend towards experiential presentations that engage audiences on multiple sensory levels. Ponti expressed her desire to move away from the impersonal nature of traditional shows: "I don’t want that cold idea of models simply coming out and walking. It should feel more like the soundtrack of a film." This approach aims to create a more evocative and emotionally resonant connection between the audience and the collection, fostering a deeper understanding of the designer’s artistic intent.
A Curated Approach to Distribution and Seasonality
The Spring 2027 season also marks a significant strategic development for Venerdì Pomeriggio: its first foray into selective wholesale distribution. This move signifies a calculated expansion, carefully managed to align with Ponti’s core principles of mindful production and distribution. "I don’t want to follow fashion’s pace or do huge productions," Ponti asserted. "I want the distribution to remain very curated." This deliberate approach suggests a desire to maintain the brand’s artisanal integrity and avoid the pressures of mass production that can often compromise quality and ethical considerations.
Furthermore, Ponti continues to challenge the rigid, dictates of the traditional fashion calendar. A selection of knitwear and transitional pieces will be available immediately, resisting a strict seasonal timetable. This approach is rooted in her personal design philosophy: "I’ve never really liked designing by seasons, I work a lot with layering." This emphasis on versatile, layered pieces that transcend specific times of year speaks to a growing consumer desire for enduring style and a more sustainable approach to wardrobe building. The brand’s philosophy, much like the cultivation of a garden, embraces organic growth and evolution, prioritizing authenticity and considered development over forced or accelerated cycles. This season’s collection, therefore, stands as a testament to Vivetta Ponti’s commitment to a more thoughtful, sustainable, and intrinsically beautiful approach to fashion design. The implications of this curated approach to distribution and its resistance to rigid seasonality could set a precedent for other emerging designers seeking to build brands with longevity and purpose, demonstrating that success can be achieved through mindful growth rather than relentless expansion.
