The ongoing "Ski the South" tour, an ambitious multi-state exploration of ski resorts, has brought its intrepid chroniclers, the "Scribe Duo," to the storied peaks of Colorado. Following a scenic drive from Beaver Creek, their journey included an overnight pause in Glenwood Springs before culminating in the world-renowned ski destination of Aspen. This particular leg of the tour, while technically venturing into regions that might align with a "Ski the Northern Midwest" moniker, remains integral to the broader narrative of exploring ski culture across diverse American landscapes, a pragmatic approach to digital discoverability that prioritizes narrative flow over strict geographical categorization. The tour’s overarching mission is to spotlight ski resorts situated along the eastern mountain ranges south of New England, with strategic inclusions of Colorado destinations and future plans to traverse the northern plains.
A Transit Through Time in Glenwood Canyon
The day’s transit westward along Interstate 70 offered a captivating prelude to the skiing adventures ahead. The route wound through the majestic Glenwood Canyon, mirroring the serpentine course of the Colorado River. This stretch of interstate is widely recognized for its breathtaking natural beauty, a testament to remarkable feats of engineering that seamlessly integrate the highway into the rugged canyon landscape. The Scribe Duo reminisced about a prior journey through this very canyon decades ago. During that earlier trip, a four-person contingent, including one of the current chroniclers, encountered an unexpected two-hour traffic halt due to ongoing construction. The resulting mile-long "parking lot" on I-70, while initially frustrating, became an impromptu social gathering, punctuated by shared beverages and a distinctly youthful indulgence in counterculture revelry. This anecdote highlights not only the enduring allure of the canyon but also the transformative power of unexpected detours in shaping memorable travel experiences.
Upon exiting I-70, the Scribe Duo proceeded to No Name, a locale loosely affiliated with Glenwood Springs, for a rendezvous with their hosts. No Name, a charming hamlet nestled within its namesake canyon, is home to Ann Hopkinson and her close friend Charlie Adams. Hopkinson and Adams were slated to serve as hosts and skiing companions for the upcoming Aspen excursion, offering a glimpse into the idyllic lifestyle of those fortunate enough to reside in such picturesque surroundings. The "backyard view" presented at their No Name residence is, by any measure, exceptionally appealing, offering a serene backdrop to the anticipation of their next ski adventure.
The Silver Queen and Encounters with Aspen’s Enduring Spirit
The following day was dedicated to experiencing Aspen, a resort synonymous with luxury, history, and world-class skiing. Despite a reportedly modest snowpack at the time of the visit, the inherent magic of Aspen, often ranked alongside legendary resorts like Alta and Jackson Hole, ensures that any day spent on its slopes is unlikely to be a disappointment. Upon securing their lift tickets, the Scribe Duo, as senior citizens, noted with satisfaction that Aspen offers a senior discount, a policy they contrasted with that of the Vail Corporation, emphasizing a commitment to accessibility for veteran skiers. Their ascent commenced aboard the iconic Silver Queen gondola, a journey that often provides unexpected encounters and insights into the diverse tapestry of individuals drawn to such iconic destinations.
As the gondola cabin ascended, the Scribe Duo encountered Wayne, a man whose presence was as distinctive as his story. Unlike most passengers clad in ski attire, Wayne was not headed for the slopes. His plan was to disembark at the summit, collect his groceries, and then embark on a snowmobile journey to his remote cabin further down the mountain. Wayne’s personal history with skiing had been irrevocably altered by a snowmobile accident that resulted in a broken back. During his recovery, aided by a regimen of painkillers, he described a period as part of what he termed the "Drool Crew." This phase of his life reportedly involved socializing with notable figures, including Chevy Chase, and during his early years in Chicago, with Dan Aykroyd, John Belushi, and the iconic musical couple Mick and Bianca Jagger. Although no longer actively skiing, Wayne embodies the quintessential Aspen ski bum spirit – a testament to the resort’s enduring appeal as a haven for individuals with a deep connection to the mountains, regardless of their current ability to carve turns. His narrative underscores the rich, often unconventional, histories woven into the fabric of Aspen’s legendary status.
Taming the Legend: Ruthie’s Run and Historical Echoes
The summit of Aspen Mountain, known colloquially as Ajax, provided breathtaking panoramic views of the town below, an ideal vantage point to commence a day of skiing. A trio of on-mountain hosts were strategically positioned to offer assistance, answer queries, and, crucially, emphasize the importance of hydration, a vital consideration at an elevation of 11,200 feet above sea level.
The day, though under an overcast sky, offered excellent skiing conditions. A particular highlight for the Scribe Duo was a run down Ruthie’s Run, a trail celebrated as one of Colorado’s most renowned race courses. Historically, the lower pitches of Ruthie’s Run served as the venue for the Roche Cup, an event that attracted numerous accomplished skiers, including the late, legendary Duncan Cullman. During periods when Aspen hosted World Cup Downhill events, the entirety of Ruthie’s Run, encompassing a formidable 3,400 vertical feet, was utilized. Notably, Ann Hopkinson, the Scribe Duo’s host, also has a personal history with this iconic trail, having competed in a downhill race on its challenging terrain. This historical context imbues the skiing experience with a deeper resonance, connecting contemporary visitors to the resort’s storied past in competitive skiing.
Refueling and the Journey’s Continuation
Despite the absence of direct sunlight, Aspen lived up to its reputation as an exceptional ski destination. The hosts, Charlie and Ann, demonstrated remarkable acclimatization to the high altitude, a stark contrast to the Scribe Duo’s more pronounced altitude sensitivity. This necessitated a focus on rest, sustenance, and hydration, with Bonnie’s, a venerable establishment boasting sixty years of history, serving as the ideal location for refueling. The establishment’s enduring presence speaks to its integral role in the Aspen skiing experience, providing a welcoming respite for skiers of all backgrounds.
Following their stay in No Name, one of the Scribe Duo, Ms. Scribe, prepared for her departure. Her journey involved a rendezvous with Amtrak’s renowned California Zephyr. This iconic train route would transport her back through the scenic Glenwood Canyon and onward to Denver for a final night with her sister before her flight back to Vermont, marking the conclusion of her ski vacation. Meanwhile, her companion, The Scribe, was set to continue their adventure, heading towards Snowy Range, Wyoming, signaling the commencement of the "Ski the Northern Midwest" portion of their expansive tour. This transition underscores the fluid nature of their journey, adapting to the evolving landscape of their multi-faceted ski expedition.
The "Ski the South" tour, while perhaps a broad designation, effectively encapsulates the spirit of exploration and discovery that drives these dedicated skiers. By weaving together iconic destinations like Aspen with lesser-known locales and embracing flexible naming conventions, the tour ensures a comprehensive and engaging narrative of American ski culture. The experiences at Aspen, from the encounter with Wayne to the challenge of Ruthie’s Run, offer a compelling snapshot of the resort’s enduring legacy and the diverse individuals who continue to call it home, or at least, a cherished destination. The journey’s continuation through the Northern Midwest promises further exploration of skiing’s diverse expressions across the continent.