Paris, France – Repetto, the venerable Parisian house synonymous with elegant ballet flats and enduring Parisian chic, is poised to launch a highly anticipated collaboration with legendary Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto. The partnership, set to debut on September 14, marks a significant moment for the brand as it navigates a resurgence in popularity, driven by both contemporary trends and its own rich heritage. Charlotte Gaucher-Holmann, CEO of Repetto and daughter of the late Jean-Marc Gaucher, shared insights into the collaboration and the brand’s trajectory in an exclusive interview for Vogue’s "The Scoop" series.
The collaboration with Yamamoto is not Repetto’s first foray into working with avant-garde designers. Under the leadership of Jean-Marc Gaucher, who acquired the then-struggling company in 1999, Repetto forged significant partnerships with esteemed Japanese fashion houses, including Issey Miyake, Comme des Garçons, and Yohji Yamamoto himself. These collaborations were instrumental in re-establishing the iconic Cendrillon ballet flat as a must-have item for those seeking to embody Parisian style. Yamamoto’s distinct approach to design and his independent, decades-long career deeply resonate with Repetto’s own values, according to Gaucher-Holmann.
“I have a lot of respect and admiration for Yohji Yamamoto because he built his house independently and has kept it going for over 50 years, with a commitment to creativity, craftsmanship, discipline, and at the same time, freedom,” Gaucher-Holmann stated. “These are values we share because Repetto is also a family-run business and our focus is dance, which requires discipline and a rebellious vision at the same time.” She expressed confidence in the synergy between the two brands, describing the collection as “unexpected but, at the same time, very coherent with our two brands.”
A Legacy of Dance and Parisian Cool
Repetto’s story began in 1947, rooted in the world of ballet. Founder Rose Repetto was inspired by her son, choreographer Roland Petit, who complained of sore feet after his dance classes. Her mission was to recreate a dancer’s shoe suitable for everyday wear, a concept that would come to define the brand. The Cendrillon ballet flat quickly became a symbol of grace and sophistication, embraced by iconic figures such as Brigitte Bardot, Rudolf Nureyev, and Serge Gainsbourg, cementing Repetto’s association with artistic expression and rebellious elegance.
Jean-Marc Gaucher’s acquisition of Repetto in 1999 was a pivotal moment in the brand’s history. He meticulously revived its core offerings, particularly the beloved ballet flats, and strategically engaged in high-profile collaborations to reintroduce the brand to a global audience. This approach not only boosted sales but also infused Repetto with a contemporary relevance, attracting a new generation of fashion-conscious consumers.
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Bridging Cultures: The Yamamoto Connection
The genesis of the Repetto x Yohji Yamamoto collaboration stems from a long-standing relationship between the two houses. Their initial collaboration dates back to 2002, establishing a fluid channel of communication and mutual respect. Gaucher-Holmann highlighted Japan as a key market for Repetto, underscoring the strategic importance of this renewed partnership.
While Gaucher-Holmann did not have the opportunity to meet Yohji Yamamoto directly for this project, she emphasized a strong connection through his team. “He has such a unique way of working closely with his team that it felt like we were talking to him in a way,” she explained. Yamamoto’s deep interest in the world of dance and his inspiration drawn from pointe shoes were central to the creative process. “Yohji was really interested in the world of dance and found inspiration in the pointe shoes. Then he came up with the ideas and the design; you can’t really dictate to him, and that wasn’t the point of this collaboration.”
The resulting designs are characterized by Yamamoto’s signature radical aesthetic, a departure from Repetto’s traditionally more subdued designs. However, Gaucher-Holmann believes this boldness aligns with Repetto’s historical embrace of “rebel figures,” maintaining a vital tension within the brand’s identity.
The Zizi Resurgence and the Enduring Appeal of Ballet Flats
The current fashion landscape has seen a significant revival of classic footwear silhouettes, with ballet flats emerging as a dominant trend. This has directly benefited Repetto, particularly its iconic Zizi shoe. The Zizi, originally designed for ballet dancer Zizi Jeanmaire, wife of Roland Petit, has experienced a notable surge in popularity.
“Absolutely. It’s been a little crazy for the last eight months or so. We are seeing amazing growth, and it’s wonderful,” Gaucher-Holmann confirmed, referencing the Zizi’s increased sales. This revival is partly attributed to its appearance in recent fashion contexts, including Michael Rider’s styling for Celine’s recent shows, which drew a direct line back to Serge Gainsbourg’s sartorial choices in the 1970s. The Zizi’s enduring appeal lies in its distinctive construction, supple leather, and unmistakable silhouette, which has consistently influenced both fashion and music.
Beyond the Zizi, Repetto is experiencing renewed interest across its entire range. The classic Cendrillon ballet flat remains the brand’s best-selling silhouette, a testament to its timeless design. The heeled ballerina, the Camille, follows closely, while the Zizi continues its rapid ascent. Gaucher-Holmann expressed her delight at seeing a new generation discover Repetto’s heritage and embrace its various styles.
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Organic Influence and the Future of Repetto
Repetto’s approach to brand ambassadorship and influencer engagement is characterized by a commitment to authenticity. The brand’s partnership with Kaia Gerber, a notable figure in the fashion world and also a dancer, exemplifies this philosophy. Gerber had been a wearer of Repetto shoes for years before the official partnership was established.
“When it comes to Kaia, we really chose each other in a way – it’s a very genuine relationship,” Gaucher-Holmann explained. “Kaia chose to wear our shoes for years before we met and made this partnership official. It wasn’t a placement, and we don’t really work that way. We try to approach people as organically as possible.” Gerber’s effortless femininity and her background in dance are seen as perfectly embodying Repetto’s ethos. The successful launch of two shoe models co-created with Gerber in March further solidified this genuine connection.
A Personal Commitment: Leading a Family Legacy
Charlotte Gaucher-Holmann’s ascension to CEO in 2023, following her father’s passing, marks a profound personal commitment to the Repetto legacy. Her thirteen years at L’Oréal provided her with a strong foundation in brand management, instilling rigor and discipline. However, she distinguishes the experience of leading a family-owned company from her previous corporate roles.
“Every decision I take is professional and deeply personal at the same time,” she stated. “I feel responsible for the brand’s history, the well-being of the employees, and my family’s future. I can feel Repetto deep in my guts because it’s been in my family for over 20 years.” This deeply personal connection fuels her dedication to preserving and evolving Repetto’s rich heritage while embracing new creative directions, such as the significant collaboration with Yohji Yamamoto. The partnership signifies Repetto’s continued ability to innovate and remain relevant in the dynamic global fashion industry, drawing strength from its storied past and looking towards a future defined by artistry and enduring elegance.
